Walk Reports|Southern Fells|Brotherilkeld, Eskdale, Sampsons Stones, Pen, Scafell Pike, Broad Crag, Ill Crag, Esk Hause, Esk Pike, Lingcove Beck

Pen and Esk - Photo Gallery

When I parked at Jubilee Bridge it was sunny and warm enough to wear shorts for the first time this year. I walked down the lane to Brotherilkeld Farm, crossed the narrow footbridge to Taw House, and then walked by the side of River Esk, sometimes on a path barely clinging to the steep slopes above a rocky gorge. Upper Eskdale opens out into the Great Moss, a wide swamp in a hanging valley surrounded by steep rugged slopes, with the intriguing formation of Sampsons Stones close by. I was tempted by the scramble by the side of the Cam Spout waterfall, but carried on as I had planned until I was close to the base of Dow Crag.

The were climbers on the crag but I took a route around the crag towards the summit of Pen; the slope is too steep to walk comfortably, and I prefer making use of the bouldery sections rather than slog up the grass. Above the boulders there is another grass slope, not as steep but steep enough, before the final short scramble to the summit. The summit of Pen isn't plain rock, there are blocks containing patterns and swirls that defy a natural explanation, and the view, Ill Crag looks excitingly rugged, is exceptional.

I clambered over the undulating, rugged summit, to the cairn on the subsidiary rock platform at the other side of the plateau; the prospect of climbing to Scafell Pike from there is quite daunting. There is however, at least one gap in the crags, and after a big step up over an exposed boulder, the climb upwards is ruggedly interesting but without difficulty. It's quite a shock to suddenly come across the extremely busy summit of Scafell Pike after not seeing anybody for hours.

I joined the throng, people in all directions, as I descended to Broad Crag col, only to be alone again on the delicious scramble to the summit of Broad Crag. I walked across the shoulder of Ill Crag, and then descended to Esk Hause before another interesting walk up to the summit of Esk Pike, and the down to Ore Gap. The steep descent by the side of Yeastyrigg Gill only feels tedious because you are likely to have been on your feel for quite a while before getting there.

After the steepness there is swamp, the appropriately named Green Hole and the longwet walk by the side of Lingcove Beck; it's a long walk on rough ground before you get to Lingcove Bridge, and a long walk back to the car park.