Weekend in Glen Shiel July 2003, South Glen Shiel Ridge - Photo Gallery
How do you describe a 7 hour drive as good? With the weather being so good it was still quite light when I got to the youth hostel at Ratagan at 10:15 on Friday evening to meet up with the other youths.
Saturday morning brought rain that cleared to leave a spectacular view of the Five Sisters from the hostel, until the midges attacked anyway. The walk started from the Cluanie Inn but we left one car three miles down the road where we expected to finish the walk.
At the Cluanie Inn there was much scratching of heads caused by the onslaught of midges until Avon Skin So Soft was applied and we all smelt lovely as we set off up the old road to Glen Loyne. It was easy walking for an hour and a half until we reached the start of the ridge towards Craig A' Mhaim with spectacular views of mountains with unpronounceable names that were off the edge of my map anyway.
The climbing starts here along a reasonably obvious path, and all of a sudden I was climbing a big mountain and the weather was glorious although only one of us was warm enough to be walking in shorts. At the summit the views were spectacular, I didn't realise just how good they were until looking at the photos afterwards.
The ridge ahead was very inviting, good walking but there are no easy routes in Scotland. The weather threatened to close in but walking in shorts and gloves has been one of the features of this year. On the ridge now the ways ahead and behind are clear as are the views, nothing but hills and lochs all around. Druim Shionnach arrived after a long and sometimes rocky ascent along a broad ridge.
After a short dip the view along the ridge looks more exilharating but is relatively easy to the airy summit of Aonach Air Chrith. Walking on a real ridge now, a couple of rocky scrambles before you get to the summit of Maol Chinn-Dearg and a narrow rocky path on the descent. The view around was extensive, hills as far as you can see but you have to concentrate on where your feet go on the descent from the summit of Maol Chinn-Dearg, an interesting little rocky ridge. Looking backwards you could see that you had walked very close to the edge along the narrow crest of a large steep slab.
You can now see the bulk of Sgurr An Doire Leathain, beginning to feel hard on the legs now as it is another big hill to climb. What a summit though, feeling really high up with long interesting looking ridges leading off in different directions. Loch Quoich was still in view with many hills beyond, the loch looked large enough but all you can see is the small northern spur crossed by a road bridge.
Walk down a narrow grassy ridge to a col with views down over the lochan that helped to name the next peak. Another long slog up another big hill and another fine airy summit, this one named Sgurr An Lochan is almost pronounceable. No apologies for contouring around the intermediate peak of Scurr Beag, it has been a hard enough walk already.
Another big hill to climb, Creag Nan Damh was the seventh Munro of the day, up to a fine large flat summit and more views of hills all around including a mist free Ben Nevis in the distance. Well, the hard work is done and downhill all the way, all we have to do is follow the wall to Bealach Duibh Leac and pick up the obvious looking stalkers path down to the valley.
Hmmm. Follow the wall and look for a cairn, what could be easier than that? The wall looks like it is going upwards and the path is down in the valley. A bit more patience would probably have got us to the right place but these Scots are an impatient lot and they can't wait to get down so we just head downhill. Steep, wet and bouldery and a long way down, not the perfect end to a long walk but interesting and challenging anyway and the sun is still shining.
Eventually got down to the stream which might have been difficult to cross if there had been a lot of water in it. Then followed a stalkers path down by the side of the stream, the path was quite obvious but still not easy over rough ground. Then just as you feel that you are getting near to the end the midges attacked again. Not far now to the road and thankfully there was the car a couple of hundred yards away.
By now it was nearly eight o'clock so we had a mad dash to go and get showered and changed before they stopped serving meals at the Kintail Hotel. Just made it in time and it has to be said that the Scots are very sociable people to spend an evening with.
It rained overnight but cleared up in the morning just in time to allow the midges to attack as we were loading up the cars. Just a “short” walk today starting from the camp site at Shiel Bridge and six of us set off up the attractive valley. There are increasingly good views of the Five Sisters of Kintail as you gain height. The walk up the valley wasn't steep but took its toll as two of the party decided not to carry on due to a combination of sore legs and a late night.
Eventually you come to a lochan that marks the start of the steep climb of Sgurr Mhic Barraich, no footpath any more just striaght up the steep heathery hillside. Still a generally dry day but we did get caught by a couple of showers that threatened to turn into really bad weather, fortunately the worst of the weather kept its distance.
At the broad summit the clouds disappeared to give good views down to the loch and across to the distant hills. It is a rule of the mountains that what goes steeply up must go steeply down, and so it was. Down through grass, heather and then bracken, the smell of deer prompted a discussion about deer ticks and bare legs and the pleasantries of removing the former from the latter.
Eventually back to the path for an easy walk back down to the car park, pausing only for a quick game of pooh sticks as we crossed a wooden foot bridge.
All I need to do now is drive for 7 hours before I get to rest my feet. An anti climax to a splendid couple of days walking with excellent company in excellent weather in a wonderful place.
Andy Wallace 26th & 27th July 2003